Corner Options

Keyed Corners

Most of our 4ft x 8ft panels have corners with interlocking keys or fingers.
This option provides one of the most natural looking corner transition. If you have two corners on your project, the keyed corner may work to start one side but unless there is a break (like a door or bump out) between the first and opposite corner, then you may not be able to have a keyed corner on the opposite side.

Keyless Corners

Some of URESTONE panels (like the wainscot series) only have keyless corners, while most 4 x 8 panels have both options. The keyless corners have flat sides and provides more lattitude in installing panels between corners. These corners have a little more thickness depth than the thickness of the panels and “Frame” the panels on each end. The procedure is to start with the first corner and cut off the keys on the panel used with this corner and then install the panels until you reach the other corner. Then you add the corner on the opposite side and cut the last panel to fit between this corner and the last panel.

Mitering Outside Corners – Using Table Saw

Corners can be produced by mitering a panel. Many times this can produce the most natural transition. However, there are two aspects that need to be evaluated before deciding to do this method. First, it requires a little more workmanship and more time to accomplish properly. Secondly, this corner has to be properly glued at the miter and screwed so they do not gap in exterior applications.

When using a table saw, the panel should be cut with the pattern facing up and when using a circular saw, the panel should be cut from the backside.

Mitering Outside Corners – Using Circular Saw

Step 1: With a T-square, mark the back of the panel where the cut is to be made. Before cutting the panel, look on the texture side to make sure that when the cut is made that the stones are balanced and you are not going to cause any unusually small stone patterns in the corner miter.
Step 2: It is recommended that you use a clamp on saw guide to insure that the cut is uniformly straight for a tight fit.
Step 3: Cut a 45o angle on both sides of the cut line (a triangular piece will be the bi-product of the cuts.)
Step 4: For exterior applications a polyurethane adhesive is required where the two mitered corners come together(not caulk) followed by a few screws to reinforce the corner.

Inside Corners – Butt Joint

The butt inside corner is the simplest way to do inside corners and works well in most cases. Place the first panels all the way to the corner. Look for any high spots that might interfere with the next panel fitting tight and if necessary adjust with a saw, grinder or file. It is recommended that caulk be placed in the corner prior to installing the adjacent panel. Then push the adjacent panel into the caulked corner and screw in place.

Mitering Inside Corners

Mitering the inside corner produces the most fluid looking and tightest transition (Figure 9.2A). In most applications a butt inside corner will be satisfactory but the mitered corner might be better in the following conditions:

  1. in an interior application that the corner will be in prominent view
  2. in exterior applications in wet climate regions where having a tighter seal is very important. Also, use polyurethane adhesive such as PL Adhesive.